Rejas de San Esteban brings together two Romanesque churches, underground wine cellars and a townscape shaped by traditional building methods. The town lies between the hills of Castillo and La Loma and has been designated a Bien de Interés Cultural in the category of historic ensemble since 2007. The churches of San Martín and San Ginés feature different architectural details and both form part of the Romanesque Route along the Duero.

Romanesque Churches and Their Distinctive Features

San Martín has been protected as a Bien de Interés Cultural in the category of historic-artistic monument since 14 November 1980. Its portal has four decorated archivolts. The portico has seven rounded arches resting on twin or quadruple columns with capitals decorated with plant motifs. The arcades are topped with diamond points and have two entrances. Until its restoration in 1982, the portico was used as a livestock shelter.

Inside San Martín, Gothic wall paintings adorn the semi-dome of the apse and the presbytery; their colours range from black and brown to reddish tones. The twelve apostles are depicted on the Gospel side of the presbytery. Saint Christopher can be seen on the south wall of the nave. The furnishings also include the Virgen de la Guía.

San Ginés can be understood through its layout and surviving architectural features: two naves are separated by two rounded arches on pillars. The main nave is covered by a 16th-century Mudéjar-style rafter and tie-beam roof decorated with heraldic motifs. Only the portico, the portal and the cornice on the south wall remain of the original Romanesque structure. The capitals feature animal depictions and figurative motifs. Today, five arches and the springing of a sixth can be seen on the portico. The two churches thus bring together different architectural forms and surviving elements.

Townscape, Hills and Surroundings

Traditional houses also tell the story of local building methods. Their ground floors have rubble-masonry walls, while timber and adobe are used on the upper floors. The roofs are gabled and covered with tiles in the local “a la segoviana” style. These details offer a different perspective on a walk through the town from that provided by its religious buildings.

La Loma is a viewpoint overlooking the valley of the Madre or Rejas River, as far as its confluence with the Duero. The hill of Castillo is associated with a former Muslim fortification and has underground galleries. Nearby, between El Pontón and La Zarzona, you can see the remains of the Ermita de la Virgen de los Perales. It lies outside the town’s built-up area and is therefore a separate point of interest in the surrounding area.

Wine Route and Local Cuisine

Rejas de San Esteban lies on the Soria section of the Ribera del Duero Wine Route and is known for its underground wine cellars and wineries. This wine tradition adds another local focus to the churches and architectural heritage. Wood-fired suckling lamb is part of the local cuisine; a Ribera del Duero wine is presented as an accompaniment to local dishes. The festival in honour of Saint Anthony is also part of the local calendar. If you are planning to travel for it, check the festival dates in advance.

Planning Your Visit

For visits to San Martín and San Ginés, check the Abrimos programme for the summer and Holy Week. It provides information on seasonal visiting opportunities, but should not be taken to indicate year-round opening hours. The Romanesque Route along the Duero offers a shared thematic framework for both churches.

If you are travelling from Soria, the route described follows the N-122 to San Esteban de Gormaz and then the SO-P-5003 to Rejas de San Esteban. Check current navigation information before setting off. This lets you combine your journey with a visit to the churches, the view from La Loma, or a focus on wine and architectural heritage, without assuming a fixed order for all the stops.

Discover more destinations: San Felices, Torremocha de Ayllón, Vildé, Villar Del Río, Hinojosa de la Sierra, Valdelagua del Cerro, Arévalo De La Sierra, Santervás De La Sierra.

Go to the main travel overview: Soria.